Reason for the season

For many cooks sea salt is considered more elegant and less abrasive than table salt, but salt can come in many different guises.

In Asia, for example, they tend to season dishes with fish sauce, tamari, soy or molluscs from the sea, which tend to have a salty flavour that requires nothing further.

Salt has always been a valuable commodity as it works as a preservative; such foods as cod, preserved lemons and Parma ham are all cured using salt.

At the restaurant, Petersham Nurseries, they follow a principle of early salting.

This means that all meats are salted a couple of days before cooking. The salt first draws out the moisture and then returns deeply into the meat to create a beautiful flavour and succulence during the cooking. Fish is only gently salted, as its flesh is so delicate.

Meanwhile, vegetables are only salted during the cooking process - when blanching or boiling vegetables the water should be almost as salty as the sea - and then no further seasoning is needed. Potatoes need more salt than any other vegetable; spinach the least.

Over-salting can be corrected by using a squeeze or two of lemon juice.


Salted roast beef

This recipe works similarly to a cure or as a simple brine - and you will not be disappointed with the results. The most important thing is to use a simple sea salt as opposed to a finer variety and not to re-salt the meat before cooking.

(Serves 6 to 8)



Ingredients:

2kg beef fillet

2 tbsp sea salt (1 tbsp per kilo)

A little freshly ground pepper



Method:

Using a clean, slightly damp cloth, pat the meat dry and lay it on a clean chopping board. Do not remove any of the outside layer of fat, as this will add to the succulence and taste of the meat. Salt the meat and place in a container, covering the meat with a damp, clean cloth. Place in the fridge and allow the meat to cure for 24 hours.

To cook, set your oven to its maximum temperature, wipe the meat clean and season with a little pepper but no additional salt. Place in a pan and roast for no more than 5 minutes a kilo. So, in this case, roast the 2kg beef fillet for 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and leave in its pan, covering the meat loosely with foil. Allow to rest in a warm place for 20 minutes. Serve with whatever you choose - it's best served as simply as possible, with a little freshly grated horseradish folded through some creme fraiche and a drop or two of red wine vinegar.


Roasted sole with clams, marjoram and olive oil

Delicate and sweet, this is a great treat, roasted and served with sage butter and spinach or, as it is here, with clams and a gentle olive oil. It is the clams in this dish that provide the saltiness.

(Serves 4)



Ingredients:

Allow one sole portion a person - about 250g each (ask your fishmonger to prepare the fish for you)

A little sea salt and plenty of freshly ground pepper

2 tbsp mild extra-virgin olive oil

250g clams, rinsed of any grit with several changes of water

1 small bunch of marjoram, leaves only



Method:

Start by setting your oven at its maximum temperature. Season the fish with just a little salt and plenty of pepper and place in a roasting pan. When the oven is at its hottest, place the fish on the middle shelf and roast for 12 to 15 minutes.

While the fish is roasting, place a pan over a high heat and add a tablespoon of olive oil. When the oil is hot, add the clams and some of the marjoram. Cover with a lid and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, shaking the pan a couple of times to help open the clams. Once all the clams are open, remove from the heat.

Take the fish from the oven and divide among four plates. Divide the clams among the plates, pour over the remaining olive oil and scatter with the remaining marjoram leaves.

Serve piping hot.

Chilli jam

This is good with so many things - lamb, beef or just a grilled cheese sandwich.

(Makes about 4 jars)



Ingredients:

2kg roasted tomatoes

1 tbsp mustard seeds

150ml red wine vinegar

75g fresh ginger, peeled, finely chopped

7 cloves of garlic, peeled, finely chopped

5 red chillies, deseeded, chopped

140g caster sugar

4 tbsp fish sauce



Method:

Place the tomatoes in a large saucepan. In a separate pan, toast the mustard seeds until they pop. Remove from the heat and grind with a pestle and mortar. Add the seeds and all the other ingredients to the tomatoes and cook over a very low heat for 2 to 3 hours, stirring every now and then. Remove from the hob and allow to cool before spooning into jars and placing in the fridge. You will now have a rich jam - sweet and sour, hot and slightly salty all at the same time. - The Independent on Sunday

• This article was originally published on page 11 of The Mercury on January 15, 2010

Source : Babynet